photo #6540499

5-24-'24, WBR Live, “Daily Constitution”, “Hillbilly Friday”, (pics on wimkin) What to do with the 'appliances' from the “J.C. Witney/Monkey Ward” catalogue ya sent for (and the box it came in). This could be a solid format for finding how and when any automatic 'apps' would be programmed (with all the due diligence, etc.). For the lowest practical power consumption (in this case) of a separate heat pump, and water/energy heater/storage, with heated floors, a lot of energy may be better used. Also included is how to keep from being shocked to your ass on the ground(!), and fun with permanent markers. 1, If a hot tank, shut off breaker,.... and check the breaker. If a cold tank, repeat,... open WH cover, and SHUT OFF THE BREAKER,.... AND CHECK THE BREAKER! Use permanent marker to mark the color of the wire to the terminal. If replacing the sensor (later), color the corresponding tabs to double check attached location. The reason I replaced the sensor was because I was operating it 'out of specifications' by shutting off the heater from said breaker to test energy saving. The breakers are designed to withstand this much abuse (shouldn't do it) but the 220V surge makes the sensor only good for about 50 resets. The 'adjustment' I show here isn't much better. Initial measurements, it should only be adjusted about a ½ dozen times a year. Use the lowest practical setting for the summer. Use highest possible to kill contamination from laundry (mostly). Winter will depend on location. ....... I attached a copper tube with a ID of the OD of the adjustment screw, to a plastic tube, through drilled holes, insulated, to outside temp adjustment. ........ Check cost, comfort, durability, hazards, etc., against 'battery storage' for space (effective and safe insulation) required. Also check clearance of pressure relief valve on top of tank. I think I'll paint the cardboard (electrical behind metal/insulated,150F max.) black under some leftover 'meat door' plastic. Check legalities and warranties pls.