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Change connect solar controller, ac charger and inverter. After testing the prototype out we found that the USB powered LED Light directly wired to 12 v was getting too hot. If you chose to use the usb into the solar controller you are fine for it works flawlessly with the USB 5v connection from the usb output from the solar controller. It is also thin enough we will be able without removing it for the next important consideration. If you have cut the wires and prepared it to be connected to the switch for safety reasons I will have a different recommendation 6" 12v LED Light. https://amzn.to/3ls6PKW Follow the same instructions after removing the LED light, only if you have placed it. Take the 6" LED and position it so it is closer to the switch for the light. And use zip ties to secure after drilling the holes for the wire to be connected. Next, We should have but just to be sure we will be connecting the inverter to the side front right of the crate and need to make sure it is clear of the master switch. If it is too close, we will need to move the master switch over until it is clear of the inverter. Follow the same procedure with the master switch, it is a bit easier, just unbolt, redrill the hole where it is clear and reassemble and plug the wire spades back in. The reason it is nice to have everything in front that protrudes is that even though this finished product isn't too heavy the children especially have a tendency to lean it against their body when carrying. You can see in a photo below for an example of what I mean and no need to worry about turning on the master switch if it was in the back of the crate. Next, lets connect up the solar charger to the fuse box. When we connect the solar charger, no matter where you do it should always have power from the battery. If you plug in the solar panel to the solar generator first before it has power from the battery you can damage the solar controller. Before we actually secure the controller to the crate we will make all necessary connection to it. It is much easier to connect the cables to the controller while it is loose. The controller will eventually be placed in the front left part of the crate. Amazon Solar Controller https://amzn.to/38FkRpB Renogy Site https://www.shareasale.com/u.cfm?d=696801&m=96785&u=3236126 Save 10% use coupon code RenogySolar10 Solar Panel SAE Connector https://amzn.to/3G39ofT SAE adapter Cable https://amzn.to/3LpNS61 What we will do is to take the connection for the sae plug in and using 4 zip ties attach it to the crate as like in the example below. The wire will be close to the bottom of the inner part of the crate and let it rest their. Next, we will take our red 10 gauge wire and with the controller aprox where it will be secured measure the distance with a little slack going from the positive battery connector of the controller, which should be the middle 2 plus and minus with a battery symbol. This end can be striped and then measure to the first positive screw on the fuse block. Leave a little slack and then cut the wire. Take your yellow #8 ring connector and after stripping the wire crimp on the connection. The renogy company always sends out their controllers in a closed state so the first time you set it up you need to turn it to the left as in loosening a bolt or screw. Then, when wide open take the end of the wire and place it into the slot under the battery symbol marked plus +. When the wire is all the way in with the insulation only showing, take your screwdriver and tighten to a snug but not too tight. It should hold the wire in when a small tug is given. Now take the end we crimped and unscrew one of the bolts next to a slot for a fuse as illustrated in the below picture and then take the ring, place the bolt back in and tighten. As you noticed you can use a regular screw driver on the fuse block but you will need a precision screwdriver to loosen or tighten the screws on the controller. If you don't have one your local Walmart should have a set quite reasonable. Now repeat the same for the battery connection using the black wire and across the left side of the fuse block you will see all 6 negative spots. Choose one and unscrew and after stripping/crimping a ring on screw it on. There should be no live connection as of yet because there is no fuse. Now we can take the sae plug in and trim both positive (red) and negative (black wires of the end of it and then connect them to the controller under the symbol representing a solar panel. These should be the furthest from the usb connections on the controller. When all complete, we will be ready to put in our first fuse. Find a 15 amp fuse and next to the red wire connected to the fuse block you will see a little opening to place the two metal stems of the fuse into it. Press firmly to seat the fuse. You can see how I secured the controller, in the one end I bolted it to the crate and the other end I used a small zip tie. Next, lets work on the AC Charger. The end we are concerned about is the one with the alligator clips on. We want to Trim the clips off. If you save a few inches of wire to the clips you can reuse these for something else. Strip the ends and using the yellow ring connectors strip and crimp them on both wires. Take the red wire and make the next connection to the fuse block for positive and then take the black wire after connecting the ring connector and then make the connection to the negative bus bar making sure there is ample wire to have a little slack. Take another 15 amp fuse and place it in the slot next to the red wire you just connected. We are again now live. Here is the last part we will either use 10 gauge, the remaining we will use the 12 gauge wire. We will now connect the Inverter. Exciting cause we now get to use the power from the battery. I cheated a little and ordered allready crimped wires to make this connection. 8 gauge 2 ft power cable https://amzn.to/3MBnU0T As you can see, the connectors from the inverter will be on the bottom thus securing it to the crate first will only make our job harder. So Take one end of the red wire and tape it to the bottom with the red post on the inverter taking a stretching the wire across to the fuse block to the next positive connection. Here we will move the inverter into place and the other hand stretching the wire allowing slack in the wire to make the connection. Cut the wire when happy. Take one end and place a ring that fits the positive post and strip/crimp fand then take and attach it to the inverter. As you can see, having the two cables already made just simplified this and saved us some wire. Repeat for the negative following the same protocol we have been using the black to the negative bus bar and make connection. Locate a 30 amp fuse and plug it in and now we are live. As you can see I used to bolts to hold the inverter in place with ample room to reach and plug things into it. Then I took 2 zip ties and secured the bottom and middle of the inverter as well. Feels real solid. Now I hope you will read the manual to the controller and to the ac charger. Each needs to be set to your chosen battery chemistry type and there are other settings you may wish to set. Take time to set these up before using them. If the master switch is on and you turn on the inverter it should start up. Just a not. If you leave the inverter on it will use precious energy from the battery in small amounts but everything counts. Also, when not in use or charging turn the master switch off and the battery will stay idle besides for the very little the volt meter draws. If you haven't charged your battery yet, remember to set the ac charger to the correct battery chemistry and when done just plug it in it should be charging 🙂 If you can help, we would truly appreciate and need it -- Thank you https://gofund.me/5b4a16c6 Any little bit helps and we truly are grateful. The next step should be final. We will connect the DC usb, car sockets and lights up.